I am Yu Yamamoto from the TAILORS WORLD editorial team.
For those who indulge in the luxury of ordering custom suits, every detail matters. It’s a joy known only to oneself, an appreciation for the finer aspects of clothing that often go unnoticed by others.
During a conversation with factory representatives, the topic of customers insisting on details that may seem obsolete in today’s world came up. It made me realize that I had never paid much attention to these details until now. Suddenly, I found myself reverting to a sense of nostalgia.
In the modern age, here are some specifications that may have fallen out of frequent use but still hold historical significance.
目次
Working Buttons
Mention made-to-order suits, and “working buttons” is a well-known detail. It allows the jacket to be unbuttoned and the sleeves rolled up. However, in practice, how many actually roll up their sleeves this way? This feature supposedly originated in Europe, where physicians needed to perform medical procedures without removing their jackets. It’s sometimes referred to as the “Doctor Style.”
Flower Loop
While the front lapel’s flower hole still serves a purpose for attaching badges or insignia, the flower loop on the reverse side sees less use. Originally designed for securing the stem of a flower placed in the lapel hole, this detail is seldom utilized today.
Change Pocket
The change pocket, often seen but rarely used as a pocket, got its name from its historical function of holding small change (coins). Positioned on the lower front (left), it serves as an accent for the waist since there is no chest pocket, playing an essential design role both in the past and present.
Ticket Pocket
Positioned above the inner chest pocket, the ticket pocket was designed to hold train tickets, earning it the name “ticket pocket” in some traditional tailoring circles.
Passport Pocket
Found in the inner pocket of the front lapel, this feature creates a space for inserting the passport’s top portion, designed to prevent theft. However, due to the reduced size of modern passports, it may not be as relevant today.
Beard Collar
Located on the underside of the upper collar, this part where the outer fabric folds back is also an adjustable feature. It helps prevent the collar from curling, serving both functional and aesthetic purposes. Its presence is a mark of meticulous craftsmanship and often associated with high-quality tailoring.
Watch Pocket
A pocket created in the seam of the pants’ waistband, this was historically used for storing pocket watches. Today, it may be used for small change or other items.
Throat Tab (Throat Latch)
This detail, more of a design choice, allows you to fasten a button for warmth and wind protection. While it may not see much use, it becomes a desirable detail when working with heavier fabrics or aiming for a country-inspired look.
Dollar Pocket
Located on the lower front (right) of the pants, this pocket is designed for storing bills. It is situated beneath the belt at the waist.
In Conclusion
Each of these details, while less frequently used in today’s world, carries with it a piece of sartorial history. For gentlemen who appreciate the craftsmanship and ingenuity of custom-tailored suits, these details are a source of fascination. They may add a bit more complexity to the tailoring process and come as optional extras in standard made-to-order options, but for those who know, they’re an integral part of the true pleasure of ordering custom suits.
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After 2 years of training at a major order-made suit store in Japan, I started my career in apparel materials and fabrics.
I’m especially good at suits and coats.