Hello, this is Fukuda, the editor of Tailors World.
When I was meeting with the person in charge of the factory, we had a conversation about how many customers are concerned about details that are not used in this day and age, and when he pointed it out again, I suddenly felt uncomfortable about something that I had never paid attention to before, and I felt like I was being taken back to my roots.
This is an introduction to a specification that would have been used less frequently in the modern world.
Working Buttons
This detail is so famous that it is called “Working Buttons” when it comes to order-made suits. It can be unbuttoned and arms can be rolled up.
But in reality, there are probably not many who are sown.
There is a theory that this specification was created so that doctors in Europe could perform medical treatment and surgery without taking off their jackets, also known as “doctor style.
In the olden days, there was a culture of handing down tailored clothes to children, and only the bottom two button holes were opened so that the sleeve length could be adjusted later to the child’s sleeve length. We still receive such orders.
Flower Loop
The flower hole on the upper front (right) lapel is still functional today for attaching company emblems, etc., but the flower loop on the back side is used less frequently.
Originally, as the name suggests, this detail is used to insert flowers into the flower hole and secure the stem.
Change Pocket
The change pocket is still often seen today, but few people use it as a pocket. They seem to have been named after the change pockets that used to hold change. They are mainly located on the lower front (left side), and since there are no breast pockets, they accentuate the waist area and play an important role in design both in the past and in the present.
Tichet pocket
It is made to hold tickets above the inside chest pocket on the back side.
Passport Pocket
The inside pocket of the front view.
Today, passports have become smaller, so they do not fit in terms of size.
Occasionally, some people carry long wallets, but it is best to avoid them, as the chest will bulge and the weight will cause the jacket to lose its shape.
Watch Pocket
This pocket is made at the seam of the belt of pants. In the old days, they were used to hold underwater clocks. Today, they are used to hold coins.
Throat tab
The design of this item is unique. It can be buttoned up to protect it from the cold and wind.
You may not often fasten buttons, but it is a detail that you may want to add when you want to create a country-like look with tweed or thick materials like in the image.
Dolloar Pocket
It will be a pocket for bills on the marbelt of the pants.
White collar on vest
It has a detachable white collar. The white collar on the vest is said to come from the white collar of kimono, a custom unique to Japan.
Although the above details are used infrequently, there are still many gentlemen who are attracted to them because of the many functions and innovations that were born from the historical background of the times in the custom-made suits of historical gentlemen. Each of the above details is a process that requires a little more time and effort, so it is an option that is subject to a surcharge for normal easy orders, etc. However, we believe that this is the true pleasure of ordering suits that only you know.
After completing a sewing apprenticeship at a tailor in Ginza, I joined our company. I will use the knowledge I learned during my time as a craftsman to solve our customers’ problems.