In this blog post, as the title suggests, we would like to introduce you to the important accessories of suits – shoulder pads and yukiwata (sleeve head). We will discuss their respective roles, materials, shapes, and showcase some of the products. *Currently, unconstructed jackets without shoulder pads or yukiwata are also prevalent, but when it comes to properly shaping the shoulders, these accessories around the shoulder area are indispensable.
I’m Yu Yamamoto from the TAILORS WORLD editorial team.
- Reinforcement of the shoulder area of clothing and maintenance of the overall silhouette.
- Body shape correction (adjustment of hunched or drooping shoulders, among others).
To vary thickness, cotton (wadding) is used inside. Cotton can be pure cotton wadding or synthetic wadding, and it can be inserted in its normal state or in layers. Stiffness is crucial to maintain a clean shoulder line, so interfacing may be inserted inside or it may be wrapped with gauze, felt, non-woven fabric, and more to achieve a good fit.
The most commonly used shapes are semi-circular,
a dropped shoulder part of the semi-circular shape,
or a triangular shape.
A collective term for the interfacing used for the sleeve head, which adds volume and softness to the silhouette when attaching sleeves to the shoulders.
Materials such as interfacing, felt, and domite interfacing are commonly used. There are variations with only interfacing or combinations with felt, among others.
Originally designed in a boomerang shape that closely follows the curve of the sleeve head,
or in a straight shape where isetsu (curves) are added to match the sleeve head. *The straight shape is more versatile and fits various sleeve heads but requires the skill to create the curve.
How was it?
The choice of materials, thickness, shape, and more, tailored to the shoulders of the suit you want to create, is also the essence of craftsmanship, isn’t it?
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After 2 years of training at a major order-made suit store in Japan, I started my career in apparel materials and fabrics.
I’m especially good at suits and coats.